Improving amateur indoor rock climbing performance using a changing criterion design within a self management program

Brett Edward Furlonger, Andrew Oey, Dennis William Moore, Margherita Busacca, Douglas Frederick Collins Scott

Research output: Contribution to journalArticleResearchpeer-review

Abstract

Despite the popularity of indoor rock climbing there is little information on how amateur climbers can improve their performance. A single-case experimental design with baseline, intervention, and post intervention phases was conducted using a changing criterion design within a self-management program. Discrete exercise training and combined training methods were trialled, with the effects of both on actual rock climbing compared. All discrete exercises improved over baseline; Power ball grip 45%, open-handed pull-ups by 50% and multi-stage fitness 35%.There was, however, no observable improvement in climbing performance. In contrast combined training led to a 40% improvement in climbing performance. For amateurs wishing to improve their recreational indoor rock climbing ability, practicing the task holistically rather than by training discrete skills in isolation may prove to be more effective.
Original languageEnglish
Pages (from-to)1-16
Number of pages16
JournalThe Sport Journal
Volume19
Publication statusPublished - 2017

Keywords

  • Rock-climbing
  • self-management
  • changing criterion
  • recreation
  • sport

Cite this

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title = "Improving amateur indoor rock climbing performance using a changing criterion design within a self management program",
abstract = "Despite the popularity of indoor rock climbing there is little information on how amateur climbers can improve their performance. A single-case experimental design with baseline, intervention, and post intervention phases was conducted using a changing criterion design within a self-management program. Discrete exercise training and combined training methods were trialled, with the effects of both on actual rock climbing compared. All discrete exercises improved over baseline; Power ball grip 45{\%}, open-handed pull-ups by 50{\%} and multi-stage fitness 35{\%}.There was, however, no observable improvement in climbing performance. In contrast combined training led to a 40{\%} improvement in climbing performance. For amateurs wishing to improve their recreational indoor rock climbing ability, practicing the task holistically rather than by training discrete skills in isolation may prove to be more effective.",
keywords = "Rock-climbing, self-management, changing criterion, recreation, sport",
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Improving amateur indoor rock climbing performance using a changing criterion design within a self management program. / Furlonger, Brett Edward; Oey, Andrew; Moore, Dennis William; Busacca, Margherita; Scott, Douglas Frederick Collins.

In: The Sport Journal, Vol. 19, 2017, p. 1-16.

Research output: Contribution to journalArticleResearchpeer-review

TY - JOUR

T1 - Improving amateur indoor rock climbing performance using a changing criterion design within a self management program

AU - Furlonger, Brett Edward

AU - Oey, Andrew

AU - Moore, Dennis William

AU - Busacca, Margherita

AU - Scott, Douglas Frederick Collins

PY - 2017

Y1 - 2017

N2 - Despite the popularity of indoor rock climbing there is little information on how amateur climbers can improve their performance. A single-case experimental design with baseline, intervention, and post intervention phases was conducted using a changing criterion design within a self-management program. Discrete exercise training and combined training methods were trialled, with the effects of both on actual rock climbing compared. All discrete exercises improved over baseline; Power ball grip 45%, open-handed pull-ups by 50% and multi-stage fitness 35%.There was, however, no observable improvement in climbing performance. In contrast combined training led to a 40% improvement in climbing performance. For amateurs wishing to improve their recreational indoor rock climbing ability, practicing the task holistically rather than by training discrete skills in isolation may prove to be more effective.

AB - Despite the popularity of indoor rock climbing there is little information on how amateur climbers can improve their performance. A single-case experimental design with baseline, intervention, and post intervention phases was conducted using a changing criterion design within a self-management program. Discrete exercise training and combined training methods were trialled, with the effects of both on actual rock climbing compared. All discrete exercises improved over baseline; Power ball grip 45%, open-handed pull-ups by 50% and multi-stage fitness 35%.There was, however, no observable improvement in climbing performance. In contrast combined training led to a 40% improvement in climbing performance. For amateurs wishing to improve their recreational indoor rock climbing ability, practicing the task holistically rather than by training discrete skills in isolation may prove to be more effective.

KW - Rock-climbing

KW - self-management

KW - changing criterion

KW - recreation

KW - sport

M3 - Article

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EP - 16

JO - The Sport Journal

JF - The Sport Journal

SN - 1543-9518

ER -